Vortex Pattern Cutting Workshop

1. Trace around basic bodice pattern, draw in bust dart and add no seam allowance. Join darts with a line.

2. Close bust darts and place onto stand. Plot points in a kite-like diamond shape on stand. Repeat this 3 times to create 3 concentric diamonds, marking centre point. Join up the points, ensure plot points are marked very clearly (with crosses) and ensuring the pieces correspond.
3. Take off stand, make the lines stronger with a ruler.

4. Dissect pattern into 4 different panels. Cut down the line of the outer piece and stick to larger paper - ensure that there is a line running through all pieces to be able to match the pieces up later.
5. With each piece draw a right angled line out from the mark line and add 5cm- this will be the pleat/fold line.
6. Stick down the next piece and make sure the lines match up - repeat the above for all pieces
7. Fold and make sure the pleats still work, then re-trace adding 1cm seam allowance around each piece.
8. Cut out all pieces in fabric adding notches.
9. Press the pleats to make sewing more accurate and emphasising the folds.

10. Sew together all pleats and pieces.

This is how the finished garment looked. I was very pleased with the outcome. The shape of our group's diamond meant that the pleats were slightly raised but still looked quite effective. This method was definitely more accurate and complex in comparison to the subtraction pattern cutting, but I still enjoyed the technique and would like to expand on this method further, perhaps seeing the different effects you can achieve with different fabrics and seeing whether this technique will fit within my concept.